Since pre-Hispanic times in Mexico, and continuing to date, various species of agave have been used to extract aguamiel (honey water). Once this sweet, coconut milk-like liquid is removed from the heart of the succulent and thus exposed to bacteria and yeasts from the environment, it ferments and becomes viscous. Fermented mead is known as pulque. Over hundreds of years, and more likely millennia, medicinal properties have been attributed to pulque, through myths that have been passed down from generation to generation of indigenous populations, and more recently as a result of scientific research (not without contraindications regarding the latter). . Unsurprisingly, the literature is not always consistent in both its factual foundations and its conjectures. However, a secular synthesis in summary form serves to enlighten.

Pulque, for a couple of hundred years, had been associated with an elixir for the masses, a mild intoxicant with healing powers. Driven by the natural / organic and to a lesser extent by the slow food movement, it has risen into fashion. Predominantly middle- and upper-class millennials living in Mexico’s larger urban centers, such as Monterrey, Puebla, Guadalajara, and of course Mexico City, flock to pulquerías. However, most of what is served is an adulterated form of pulque known as curados. A pulque base, sometimes even canned, is paired with a selection of processed fruits, grains, and / or vegetables, sugar or other sweetener, and sometimes milk / cream and / or a thickener like cornstarch. These cures couldn’t be further from the real deal, and it is likely that by the time they arrive on the table, any beneficial attributes, medicinal or otherwise, will have long been lost due to their commercial handling. However, the pulque available in bars and restaurants in cities near the rural regions where the mead is mined (i.e. Oaxaca, from the fields outside the city of Santiago Matatlán) is anything but 100% unadulterated. The closer the canteen or dining room is to the field where the mead was harvested, the greater the probability that the pulque has not been bastardized and that it has retained its positive properties.

The wide diversity of microclimates in which agave species are cultivated suggests that the attributes of the resulting pulque must inevitably vary, sometimes significantly. And, each species of plant itself has a unique series of compounds, minerals, vitamins, etc., which are transformed in different ways. This depends on the subregion of Mexico, as well as the predominant bacteria at that time and, to a lesser extent, the yeasts in the environment. Species of agave used to extract mead that have been observed in the literature include salmiana, americana, deserti, mapisaga, atrovirens, ferrox, and hookeri. Different roots, including and in particular acacia (referred to in some parts of the state of Oaxaca as timbre) have been commonly used to make pulque stronger, spicier, more intoxicating, or spicier. It also speeds up the fermentation process, especially during the colder months. Such additions further alter the properties of pulque.

The name pulque was probably derived from the Nahuatl word poliuhqui, which means spoiled. During pre-Hispanic times in many regions of the country it was a drink reserved for high priests, warriors and wise men. It was used ceremonially as part of the harvest celebration, to induce rain to fall, as a way to honor certain gods, and during rites of passage such as marriage, birth, and death. Divergent rules abound as to the proper way to drink, and there are a plethora of myths about its origins. But the national thread that binds together is its medicinal value. It should come as no surprise that populations that drank pulque were generally immune to the cholera epidemic of the 19th century.

Pulque has been seen throughout the country as a healthy drink, a nutritional supplement. In areas of Mexico where there is a lack of safe drinking water due to human or animal contaminants, it is used to quench thirst. But its building blocks, which include, but are not limited to, iron, carotene, thiamine, folic acid, riboflavin, niacin, ascorbic acid, proteins, calcium, magnesium, vitamin C, fiber, bioactive compounds, phosphorus, and ash, have likely led to its predominant healing role. in traditional medicine and as a preventive food.

Ask any tlachiquero (someone who beats agave to extract the mead) quite well in Santiago Matatlán, and he (or she, since at least in the state of Oaxaca producing pulque is a vocation not only reserved for men) will tell you that Pulque is 100% natural in part since the only fertilizer, if any, used to stimulate the growth of the agave, is manure from cows, sheep or goats and the mulch used is bagasse (waste fiber from the distillation of mezcal) ; and that pulque’s attributes include stimulating white blood cell production, being good for triglycerides, and managing diabetes, especially if consumed first thing in the morning long before breakfast.

The cross-cultural literature based on studies from all over Mexico offers a much broader history. Pulque has been used:

• in the treatment of gastrointestinal disorders, including kidney ulcers and infections

• as an aid to decrease the general weakness of the body and in it

• to combat loss of appetite and anorexia

• as a diuretic

• to improve relaxation before bedtime

• as an aid in the development of the fetus

• to stimulate milk production for nursing mothers

• as a means of boosting breastfeeding when touched on the lips of newborns

• for children based on their ability to promote muscle and bone formation.

Although the alleged use of pulque to stimulate fertility and improve sexual functioning does not appear to have any factual basis (except perhaps to the extent that alcohol consumption may positively affect libido in some), much of the above has been confirmed through scientific research. .

Although environmental yeasts play a role in pulque production, in particular apparently contributing to its foam, the literature more frequently refers to the bacterium of the species Zymomonas mobilis as the main stimulant that converts mead to pulque (and into less to the bacteria of the genus Lueconostoc). Z. mobilis, which is widely found in the sap of sugar-rich plants, is extremely effective in producing ethanol.

Several studies have shown in vitro growth promoting effects due to various lactobacilli and bifidobacteria plus probiotic strains. This helps the absorption of important minerals. Phytase is present and possibly very important. It is a digestive enzyme. Some believe that it can bind to corn and increase the bioactivity of iron and zinc through their metabolism. Phytase is a bacterium found in the intestines of cattle and sheep, but is not typically found in humans, although there is evidence of its presence in vegans and vegetarians. Phytase decomposes into phytic acid. This has been linked to DNA repair, clathrin-coated vesticular recycling, control of neurotransmission, and cell proliferation. While research on animal nutrition has suggested the value of supplementing feed with phytase to aid in the production of calcium, phosphorus, other minerals, carbohydrates, and proteins, the implications for humans are still largely unknown and more are required. studies.

By examining within the context of scientific research how and why indigenous populations have been using pulque for hundreds of years, we gain a better understanding of the true validity and veracity of the myths and beliefs about the healing properties of the ferment.

Scientific research confirms that consuming 850 ml of mead meets daily human needs for iron and zinc. Because it is an alternative source of FOS (fructooligosaccaride) prebiotic syrups, it improves calcium absorption in postmenopausal women and, in general, iron absorption. Its consumption has been suggested for the prevention of colon cancer. Pulque is known to contain steroidal saponins that have been studied for their medicinal uses, including antispasmodic activity and toxicity to cancer cells. They have been described as the most important bioactive compounds in yams and various biological activities such as fighting cancer have been documented.

The melatonin content in pulque helps relaxation in preparation for sleep. The probiotic potential of lactobacilli isolated from both mead and pulque provides a low-cholesterol, non-dairy alternative for those who are lactose intolerant. It is perhaps the food product with the highest dose and variety of potential probiotic microorganisms. A study in the Solís Valley, in the state of Mexico, found that pulque consumption resulted in a lower risk of insufficient hemoglobin for pregnant women.

But just as the potential health benefits of consuming pulque have been difficult to assess and confirm for reasons some of which have been noted in this article, so are some of the contraindications. We know that alcohol consumption can have harmful effects on pregnant women and their offspring, even with pulque at 6%. But this must be weighed against consumption in areas where there are generally poor dietary habits or there is no availability of diversity of vitamins and minerals through food. The literature indicates that drinking pulque in low amounts helps the development of the fetus and increases milk production during lactation (helps the mother absorb calcium).

In fact, pulque has a short shelf life due to ambient temperature and continuous contact with yeasts in the environment. The longer it is kept, the faster it turns bitter. However, once it is essentially undrinkable, in parts of Mexico like Oaxaca it is used as the base to produce a refreshing drink known as tepache. Generally, tepache is made with pulque similar to vinegar, pineapple and a derivative of sugar cane known as piloncillo or panela. It is not known if this drink retains some of the positive attributes of pulque.

For some, another problem is the lack of sanitation associated with mead and pulque. This may be evident if you ever have the opportunity to participate in the extraction of mead from the agave and / or if you have consumed pulque in a village market. In my opinion, having consumed both drinks for the last quarter century, this is not a problem. The commercial preparation of pulque for sale in cans is a possible solution. Chemicals are added to stop the fermentation. However, it is suggested that the benefits of consuming pulque will be long lost by the time canned pulque is ingested anywhere in the country or in the US states where it is available for purchase, such as California, Arizona, and New Mexico.

More studies are warranted and required to better understand the true benefits of pulque. But for now, subject to the documented risks associated with its consumption, it is suggested that the reported positive attributes should be sufficient to induce the reader to drink a little pulque from time to time, and for that matter mead if found in a region. from Mexico where it is being harvested fresh from the agave.