Making wonderful glass mosaics is easy! Let me show you how.

Ever wonder how to sign your indoor glass mosaic tiles so the signature won’t rub off or disappear? Nothing seems to permanently stick to the glass. Permanent marker is not permanent. Acrylic and enamel paint rubs, chips, or flakes. Nothing works!

Until recently, I signed my interior glass mosaics with enamel paint. I covered the entire mosaic (except the signature) with old rags and towels, then lightly sprayed two light coats of clear acrylic sealer to protect the paint. That method works fine, but it doesn’t seem to be as permanent as my new idea.

I had an epiphany a while back and have been signing all of my interior glass mosaic tiles with this method ever since. Give it a try and see how it works for you. Use this method for interior tiles only. Do not use this method for mosaics outdoors or mosaics that will be displayed in a humid environment (for example, a sauna or shower area).

CAUTION: Try this method on a piece of scrap glass before trying it on your mosaic art. Testing it on scrap glass first will let you know if this is how you really want to sign your mosaic art. It will also give you practice before doing it on your tile.

Using a fine point permanent marker, sign your name on the glass. I usually put my signature in the bottom right corner of my indoor tiles. Put yours where you like. I find a piece of tile big enough to hold my entire signature, so I don’t have to write on any grout lines. If I have to write small to fit on a single piece of tile so that I don’t cross any grout lines, then I write small.

Lay your interior mosaic art on a flat surface. Do this so that the wet glue doesn’t run or drip. If your tile is flat, the glue is thick enough that it stays where you apply it (ie, it won’t run or drip). With the Interior Tile flat, carefully apply white Elmer’s Glue-All over the entire signature. Do not touch the signature with the tip of the glue bottle or the ink may bleed. Slowly squeeze out enough white Elmer’s Glue-All to cover the entire signature. (White Elmer’s Glue-All is the product we all went to school with. I can usually pick up a large 7.625 oz bottle at Walmart for around $1.50.)

Allow the glue to dry completely overnight. White Elmer’s Glue-All dries clear. When wet, the glue does not absorb or smudge the ink. Instead, the ink remains intact and the signature looks good after the glue is dry and clear. The color of the glass also shows through so that the glue does not affect the appearance of the mosaic. The ink sinks into the glue and the glue provides strong, permanent protection for my signature on my interior tiles.

Don’t try to get pretty by using a cotton swab or other tool to spread the glue evenly. While trying to spread the wet glue, if you press too hard on a hair and touch the ink, it will smear. If you leave the ink alone, it won’t smear or smear, but it will with the slightest touch. So I suggest you don’t try to even out the glue lines. Instead, hold the tip of the glue bottle close to the glass and gently squeeze out the glue. The edges will look a bit jagged (i.e. not perfectly straight and square to each other). That’s fine in my opinion, they don’t need to be perfectly smooth, straight, and at perfect angles to each other. When the glue is dry and clear, I don’t notice the unevenness unless my nose is right up to the tile.

As indicated, do not use this method for tiles outdoors or for tiles that will be exposed in a humid environment (for example, a sauna or shower area).

This process is explained on my website for free with lots of pictures, so if you don’t quite understand it, go to my website and look at the pictures. Try this method on a piece of waste glass and see if you like it. If you do, then you’ll know a neat trick that will allow you to sign your indoor tile art masterpieces and be sure that his signature won’t rub off or wear off over time.

Remember, tiling is easy. You can do it. If you can!